La Becasse

Friday, June 15, 2012 - A crab starter, for instance, came with a curried mayonnaise that had a carefully calibrated bit of spiciness - just enough to bring out the freshness of the crab and accompanying papaya – and a crunchy ball of fried cod on top. No tricks there, just dead-on-accurate cooking. I don't normally eat foie gras, but Holland's version reminded me why people do, and the cherry that came with it in two ways - a preserve and a liquefied gel - was the ideal blend of sweet and sharp...Service was friendly and super-efficient. If all fine dining was like this, no one would yet be fed up with it.